Tea Chronicles Pt. 5 – Nessmuk

Nessmuk

Nessmuck was the pen name of George W. Sears, born in Massachusetts in 1821 he became recognised as a contributor to "Forest and Stream" magazine where he helped popularize canoeing, canoe camping and the use of ultralight single person canoes. Not a large man he kept his kit to the bare minimum advising his reader to "Go light; the lighter the better, so that you have the simplest material for health, comfort and enjoyment.” He was also one of America's first conservationists, he actively protested against the Pennsylvania's lumber companies for their destruction of the pine forests.

In 1881 Sears authored the indispensable "Woodcraft and Camping" and it is in here that we find about his respect for tea.

“Often, when too utterly tiered and beaten for further travel, I have often tried coffee, whisky or brandy, and a long experience convinces me that there is nothing so restful and refreshing as green tea. To make it as it should be made, bring the water to a high boil, and let it continue to boil for a further minute. Set it off the fire and it will cease boiling; put in a handful of tea, and it will simmer for a few minutes, when it will be ready for use. Buy the best green tea you can find, and use it freely on a hard tramp. Black, or Oolong tea, is excellent in camp. It should be put in the pot with cold water and brought to the boiling point.”

— Nessmuk - Woodcraft and Camping, 1881

There are some great sites about  Sears and "Woodcraft and Camping" is still in print and available on amazon. You can find masses of information about his life here including transcripts of his "Forest and Stream" letters and also an excellent more detailed biography here.

Scattering Sir Hubert Wilkins’ ashes

Photo by Commander James F. Calvert from National Geographic

On March 17th 1959, the USS Skate reached the North Pole. The American submarine broke through the pack ice into the arctic dusk. A storm was blowing as 2 dozen men gathered, by torchlight, and scattered the mortal remains of the legendary Australian explorer Sir George Hubert Wilkins. Commander James F. Calvert read the traditional Episcal for a burial at sea as a rifle squad fired three volleys and raised the Australian flag.

I first heard of this story many years ago when I read "Icemen", a history of arctic and antarctic exploration. The vivid imagery that this story conjured stuck firmly in my head and in the July 1959 issue of National Geographic Magazine, I found the photograph I'd been searching for since reading about this great Australian.

Wilkins, although little heard of compared to his contemporaries, was one of the most successful explorers to ever live. He saw more virgin land than anyone else in history; he was a polar explorer, ornithologist, pilot, soldier, geographer and photographer. A pioneer of aviation he was the first to pass over the North Pole in an aeroplane and to fly a plane the Antarctic. He was also the first to envision and to undertake a submarine journey under the Arctic ice.

Although he never completed his submarine journey to the floating pole, more than 20 years on Wilkins' widow passed on a copper urn to the crew of the USS Skate who would take the journey he envisioned and scatter his remains at the North Pole.

The Petzl Zoom

Petzl Zoom

The first time I saw a Petzl ZOOM I was at Boy Scouts, doing a night hike with the scary looking Venture Scouts, the "Big kids." The ZOOM seemed to be the cool piece of gear at that time. People looked on with jealousy as they clutched their Dad's torches bought from  local hardware store, or their Mum's "power-out flashlight" from under the stairs. From then on I needed one. My brother, as ever, being older got his first but mine followed soon after.

Fernand Petzl

The Petzl ZOOM was first introduced in 1981 and it changed things massively. It was designed by Fernand Petzl; a French caver, innovator and all around legend.

“[Petzl] was designing and distributing solutions that aid in commitment and progression on vertical and/or dark terrain with optimal efficiency, freedom and safety.”

Until the introduction of the ZOOM, head torches had been limited by their heavy battery packs and robust design. Because of this they were more suited to cavers and workers. What made the Petzl truly unique was its all-in-one construction. The battery pack sat on the back of the head and the torch component sat at the front. The original model used an incandescent bulb powered by a 4.5v flat battery.

What always struck me with Petzl gear was not only the innovative nature but also the quality. Their catalogues read more like mountaineering and caving manuals, each meticulously illustrated with details of the correct uses for each piece of kit. These are the kind of books that I would pore over as a child.

Each year Petzl would change the pattern on their headband, I always saw this as a nice touch - all your friends had the same model torch but they we're all different. It meant that something was being considered each year; this was an evolving product. I also liked that there was a small recess behind the flashlight section that housed a spare bulb. This became really useful when Halogen bulbs became more readily available; it meant that with a little fiddling you could have a high powered but short lasting focussed beam or a more conventional longer lasting softer beam. Their ongoing commitment to research, development and innovation has also lead Petzl to the forefront of LED head torches. They are now the standard for most hikers.

Even though my ZOOM is no more, it was one of the first legit serious pieces of hiking kit I ever bought and more than worthy of a place in hiking annals.

The Call of the Wild – Robert W. Service

Robert W, Service's Cabin

It doesn't really get much better than this.

“Have you gazed on naked grandeur where there’s nothing else to gaze on, Set pieces and drop-curtain scenes galore, Big mountains heaved to heaven, which the blinding sunsets blazon, Black canyons where the rapids rip and roar? Have you swept the visioned valley with the green stream streaking through it, Searched the Vastness for a something you have lost? Have you strung your soul to silence? Then for God’s sake go and do it; Hear the challenge, learn the lesson, pay the cost.

Have you wandered in the wilderness, the sagebrush desolation, The bunch-grass levels where the cattle graze? Have you whistled bits of rag-time at the end of all creation, And learned to know the desert’s little ways? Have you camped upon the foothills, have you galloped o’er the ranges, Have you roamed the arid sun-lands through and through? Have you chummed up with the mesa? Do you know its moods and changes? Then listen to the Wild — it’s calling you.

Have you known the Great White Silence, not a snow-gemmed twig aquiver? (Eternal truths that shame our soothing lies). Have you broken trail on snowshoes? mushed your huskies up the river, Dared the unknown, led the way, and clutched the prize? Have you marked the map’s void spaces, mingled with the mongrel races, Felt the savage strength of brute in every thew? And though grim as hell the worst is, can you round it off with curses? Then hearken to the Wild — it’s wanting you.

Have you suffered, starved and triumphed, groveled down, yet grasped at glory, Grown bigger in the bigness of the whole? “Done things” just for the doing, letting babblers tell the story, Seeing through the nice veneer the naked soul? Have you seen God in His splendors, heard the text that nature renders? (You’ll never hear it in the family pew). The simple things, the true things, the silent men who do things — Then listen to the Wild — it’s calling you.

They have cradled you in custom, they have primed you with their preaching, They have soaked you in convention through and through; They have put you in a showcase; you’re a credit to their teaching — But can’t you hear the Wild? — it’s calling you. Let us probe the silent places, let us seek what luck betide us; Let us journey to a lonely land I know. There’s a whisper on the night-wind, there’s a star agleam to guide us, And the Wild is calling, calling... let us go.”

— Robert W. Service - Spell of the Yukon and other verses, 1916

If that doesn't have you reaching for a pack and your boots I don't know what will.

Hudson's Bay Company's Scale of Provisions

The Canadian National Railways' - Camp Craft and Woodlore, 1927

I first heard about the Hudson's Bay Company's standards for food in Clyde Ormand's  "Complete Book of Outdoor Lore" although he didn't go into a lot detail I put a big circle around the paragraph hoping to find out more.  All my online research came up blank but finally, last week, I came across a small but great book. The Canadian National Railways', "Camp Craft and Woodlore" originally printed in 1927.

The Hudson's Bay Scale of Provision is a system for equating how much food one man will need when he is out in the wilds. It is a very simple but incredibly neat system, and I can't help thinking of all the trappers and mountain men using this as a guide for their time in the wilds.

It is as follows

“1 man 1 day.

2lbs. flour (or 1½ pounds of sea biscuits), 1lb. fat mess pork, 2 oz. sugar, ⅓ oz. of tea, 2 oz. peas (or same of barley), ½ oz. of carbonate of soda, ½ oz. of salt. Total 3lbs. 5½ oz. at the most”

— The Canadian National Railways' - Camp Craft and Woodlore, 1927

Simple but perfect. This book is a gold mine! You can download a copy of Camp Craft and Woodlore here

PATC 1960 Gear List

 PATC - Hiking, Camping and Mountaineering Equipment, 1960

I came across this great guide in a dusty Portland bookstore. It is a truly exhaustive list of all the gear available to the hiker, climber and mountaineer in the early 60's. This is a real gem, it has details about the brands, the weight of the items as well as the details of which companies make them. Excuse the long post, but I love an gear list.

Their suggested gear list for hiking the Appalachian Trail is as follows:

“On Person Handkerchief (Bean’s 24” bandana); Polythylene plastic bag 9” x 18” (Gerry#P62) for toilet paper Valuables, permits, keys, small note book and pencil stub, pocket knife with 2 blades, can opener Small compass induction damped (Gerry #K42 or Silva “Explorer” Stern Waterproof match box with small size strike-anywhere matches sprayed with laquer like Krylon Alarm Watch (Corcoran) Maps and proper guide book sheets in map case (PATC) — Carry in front of shirt Camera Equipment

Pack and Contents A. For use while hiking Kelty “Mountaineer” Model Packboard of proper size used with waist strap and equiped with studs or loops at of vertical risers for easy lashing. Lashed to topbar — Ruck - or rucksask (Camp and Trail #300) with “Dee” ring hooked on stud secured to top of cross bar, shoulder straps of rucksack wrapped around cross-bar, then brought down and snapped into “dee” rings at base of rucksack. Kelty Packbag Model “B” if no side trips are planned (for side trips the first option permits leaving the pack frame in base camp and carrying out essentials in the rucksack). With the rucksack arrangement, items not required during the day are placed in a rubberized clothing bag which is lashed below the rucksack, heavy items at the top. Cup – miner’s cup with wire loop handle (Sierra Club or PATC — same manufacturer). Canteen – 1qt. aluminum fuel bottle (Camp & Trail #367) or 1 qt aluminum Army surplus in pocket of pack. Shoes – Pete Limmer Mountaineer Boot; for wet spring and fall, use Beans’s Maine Hunting shoe with Bean’s arched inner sole or felt insole, as preferred. Sock – Inner - light wool surplus. Outer - cushion sole 50-50 wool and cotton since no nylon cushion sole available. Also Wigwam #620 or Epsy all nylon. Trousers – Masland Mountain brier cloth in cold weather(surplus trouser, hell Field M-1951 is best but not too available). Sears 11 oz denim, not Levi — legs are too narrow — in warmer weather. Shirt – According to weather. Pandleton wool 10oz Woolrich 14oz. Two button-down flap pockets essential. Jacket – Full zip parka (Holubar) Underwear – In summer, Brynje top, regular shorts (not jockey shorts, which permit chaffing) In winter, wool and cotton, long drawers. In very cold weather, over Brynjes warm surplus pajama-style 50-50 wool and cotton, long drawers and long sleeved undershirt with 3-button front for ventilation. Hat or cap as desired; billed cap or felt hat. Rain garments – Superlight rubber coated nylon parka (Bean) with Horcolite rain chaps (Holubar). First Aid Kit. Insect repellent – OFF Anti sun-cream _ Glacier Red Label for lips and face; after tanning Sea and Ski.

B. For use in camp Sleeping bag. Summer: Ski Hut Meadow-S; Fall and Winter: Holubar’s Royalite; Ski Hut Meadow-C; Army Surplus. Use Summer and winter bags, nested, during coldest weather. Cook Set and Stove – Atenhofer with Primus 71 (Holubar), sizes to suit 1, 2, 3 men. Gasoline in aluminum gas bottles, 1 pt. or 1 qt. (Gerry to Camp & Trail). Axe – Not needed if cook on gasoline stove. Fire inspirator - 24” x ¼” inside diameter 1/16” wall pure gum tubing (any chemical supply house). Invaluable with cranky wood fires. Doubles as tourniquet. Salt and Pepper – plastic (Boy Scout cat. No. 1411). For larger amounts use polyethylene bottles. Spoon and Fork – nesting aluminum (Gerry #A45). Flashlight – 2-cell medium size. Extra bulk. Cellulose Impregnated Sea Salt Tablets (Morton’s) Sewing Kit - 2 needles, little thread, in first aid equipment. Reserve matches and reserve toilet paper in waterproof containers. Toilet articles – Toothbrush and small paste; powder in cold weather; hotel-sized soap in bobby pin plastic box; razor blades, brushless shave cream (if shave). Tent – Holubar Royalite, Gerry Yearound. Air Mattress – Nylon Rubber, full length (Camp & Trail #268); Stebco Backpacker 46” (Ski Hut).

C. Food - Use polyethylene bags except for canned meats which should be limited. Bag food on polyethylene and place in a cambric sack for protection from chaffing. Jam in wide-mouth polyethylene jar, screw top (Ski Hut). Oleo (higher melting point than butter) in aluminum screw-top jar with plastic liner. (Benjamin Edington).”

— PATC - Hiking, Camping and Mountaineering Equipment, 1960

Tea Chronicles Pt.4 - Colin Fletcher

Fletcher at camp

This is a tea story I've been looking forward to posting but has taken a little preperation.

As a British ex-pat Colin Fletcher upheld the "Britanic Afternoon Tea" ritual despite having lived away from Blighty for more than a quarter of a century. In "The Complete Walker Pt. 3" Fletcher details his approach to tea and hiking.

“A little to my surprise, I find plain, straightforward Lipton tea the best for sheer resuscitation power. Thirty bags see even me through the thirstiest week. I normally include a few fancier jobs, mint- or orange- or cinnamon flavored, for rest-day kicks.”

— Colin Fletcher -The Complete Walkerm, 1984

Fletcher goes on, in his unique and entertaining way, to detail the use of both tea, coffee and cocoa. He quotes a paper by the Addictions Research Foundation of Ontario.This gives the hard line on the effects of caffeine. Fletcher however  jumps to the defence of tea calling coffee and cocoa "mere foods" and "such calumnies against tea are enough to depress the mood, if not the performance of an Un-British Activities Committee"

In weighing up the pluses and minuses of loose leaf vs. tea bags vs. tea powder he provides a recipe for a blend given to him by "a lover of tea and a hater of tea bags"

The blend is

“3 parts Darjeeling
3 parts Keemun
1 part Ceylon
A dash of Lapsang Suchong

which, he avers can actually be smoked and “will cure all ills, including future smoking of anything. You carry such leaves in a Ziploc plastic bag and steep by means of a lightweight metal basket.”

— Colin Fletcher -The Complete Walkerm, 1984

This I had to try, I sourced the various teas and the blend is complete. It's a delicious hearty black tea- a no-nonsense blend.  I am a big fan of Russian Caravan Tea and this is similar with Keemun and the dash of Lapsang Suchong but the Celyon gives it a lighter edge steering it a little closer to an English style tea.

A lover of tea and a hater of tea bags blend

I was so impressed I've made a full batch if anyone out there is interested in trying some shoot me an email and I'll figure the best way to get it out to you.

Pacific Crest Trail

William R. Gray - The Pacific Crest Trail, 1975

I just finished reading "The Pacific Crest Trail" by William R. Gray, published by the National Geographic Society. This is a terrific book, well worth hunting down. Gray is a gifted writer, mixing natural history, trail history and a diary style narrative as he and photographer Sam Abell walk the trail. There is a strong focus on the people they meet and their stories. Their intention was never to thru-hike, this meant they were able to stop along the way to explore, expanding the narrative. Abell's photographs are exceptional, they are very artistic and complement Gray's writing perfectly.

Gray continued as a writer, editor, and publishing executive at National Geographic until 2001 and now teaches as San Juan college. His other books include "Camping Adventure (Books For Young Explorers)" and "Voyages to Paradise," both are now on my wish list. Abell continues to shoot with National Geographic and has been published in over 20 articles. He has also released several photography books and exhibited his work numerous times. See more of Abels work here.

Mawson's Hut

Mawson's Hut, Cape Denison

Sir Douglas Mawson was an Australian geologist, explorer and accedemic during the early 1900s. So much has been written about this great man I do not feel qualified to add any more, but I came across a fascinating site which I wanted to share. At "360 Cities" they have a full 360 view inside Mawson's hut at Cape Denison. Looking around this preserved piece of history sends shivers up my spine.

It is well worth taking some time exploring this amazing place.
 Explore the Main Hut here, Mawsons Room here and Frank Hurley's Darkroom here

This was the main base used during the 1911-14 Australasian Antarctic Expedition. Where Mawson stumbled back to, alone, after his ill-fated 1912 outing to survey King George V Land. His fellow explorers Xavier Mertz and Lieutenant Belgrave Ninnis had been killed forcing Mawson to walk the last 100 miles solo. Take a moment to pay your respects at Ninnis and Mertz Memorial Cross, Azimuth Hill.

Mawson's hut is being preserved by the Mawson's Huts Foundation and the Australian Antarctic Division.

Safe Travels

'Sure-enough Santa Clause' by Norman Rockwell, from The Boy scout's hike book

Thanks to everyone for reading this year. It's been great to share some stories and talk to so many amazing people. There's lots more to come in the new years. I'm overseas for the holidays, then back to my first Maine winter, my first cold winter in 7 years!

Safe travels wherever you are headed. Hope everyone can get some time on a trail, wherever it may be. Thanks again for reading.